Instruction and Q&A
If you got any other questions, please email me to ask- pin@antsinnz.co.nz
How to choose a farm set suit for you?
First, if your budget allows, larger ant colonies are easier to care for. Big colonies have a high tolerance for mistakes, and the queens that successfully establish large colonies are generally stronger and more resilient. You can browse our recommended best-performing colonies under the "Special" > "Good Colony" section on our website. Even beginners (including children) rarely fail when starting with a large colony. If you prefer a more budget-friendly option, you can begin with a small colony starter kit or check the "Special" > "Special Price" category for discounted options. Additionally, different ant species vary in size, color, and difficulty level. Below, you can explore articles to find your preferred ant species and then select a matching nest style for a customized purchase. If you have any questions, feel free to email us at: pin@antsinnz.co.nz
We offer ant farms that are incredibly easy to operate. So simple, in fact, that all you need to do is maintain the humidity and feed the ants. This allows you to fully immerse yourself in the joy of observing and feeding the ants.
Compared to other pets, insects are more fragile in terms of vitality. Even a small mistake can easily lead to their death.
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List of instruction will be blow, if you can't found, use Ctrl+F to search for the bold world
1: Common causes of ant deaths
2: Ant choose, ant species we selling
3: Farm choose, different farm we selling
4: Condensation on farm
5: ant not move around
6: about mealworm farm please check here
7: Keep Daphnia
8: about anti-escape powder
9: Springtails
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Common causes of ant deaths include:
1. Placing the farm near a window where it is exposed to sunlight, which can cause the ants to overheat and die.
2. High-intensity lighting or using a flashlight, which can startle the ants. Accidentally dropping the farm or shaking it, which can also frighten the ants. Frightened ants may release formic acid, and in the enclosed environment of the farm, this acid can accumulate and kill them.
3. Failing to add water or provide food for an extended period can lead to the ants' death.
4. Exposure to fly spray, certain insect-repellent incense, wood, or chemical products can also be fatal to the ants. It also happen when you found a dead insect and put in to feed. the reason cost that insect dead maybe also kill your ant.
5. Adding Contaminated Decorations Can Also Kill Your Ants For example, if you collect items like twigs, leaves, or sand from parks, schoolyards, or even your own backyard to decorate the ant nest, you risk introducing harmful chemicals. Public areas like schools and parks are routinely sprayed with insecticides—which will inevitably kill your ants. Even materials from your own garden may pose a threat. Stones, soil, or wood could contain residual herbicides, pesticides, or other chemical treatments that are toxic to ants.
6. Please do not feed snails or slugs to the ants, as their mucus can trap the ants, leaving them unable to move and ultimately leading to their death.
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When selecting the same species, a larger colony is generally easier to maintain. If you’ve tried raising small colonies multiple times without success, consider starting with a larger one—it’s much simpler. Here’s why: Small colonies consist of only a queen and a few workers, meaning any mistake could wipe out the entire group. In contrast, large colonies have significantly more workers, so even if some are lost due to errors, the overall colony remains stable. According to natural selection, in the wild, only 1 out of 1,000 queens succeeds in establishing a thriving colony. This isn’t just due to predators—many queens are inherently weaker. Even in captivity (without predators), most queens fail to develop their colonies, often stagnating and dying out before reaching 100 workers. A large colony, however, is guaranteed to have a strong queen, ensuring success.
I will list below the ant species I‘m selling along with their respective advantages and disadvantages. from easy to hard.
Ochetellus glaber is one of the most common and easiest ant species to keep. Queen 5mm, workers 2-3mm size. We often see them in kitchens, and they are so resilient that it's difficult to completely eliminate them from such environments. They eat almost all types of food, including chicken, beef, seafood, cookies, candy, and various fruits. They reproduce very quickly, and under ideal conditions, their colony can grow to 5,000 ants in a year. From October to February each year, a large number of queen ants emerge, making it very easy to collect them.
Iridomyrmex suchieri They are almost identical to Ochetellus, with the only differences being that they are slightly larger in size and have a somewhat slower reproduction rate. queen 8mm, workers 3-4mm.
Big head (Pheidole megacephala) is one of the smallest ant species in New Zealand and one of the few species that has soldier ants. The soldier ants look very different from the regular worker ants, with half of their body consisting of their head. This species reproduces very quickly and often hunts in groups of nearly a thousand ants. They are capable of hunting ordinary insects and will eat almost anything, making them very easy to care for. Additionally, they are one of the few ant species that practice intranidal mating flights, meaning that over time, multiple queens may appear within the same colony as you continue to raise them. queen 6mm, workers 2mm. soldier 4mm. When fed with liquid food dyed in different colors, the abdomens of the soldier ants will display corresponding colors, reflecting the hue of the food they have consumed.
Tetramorium bicarinatum is a relatively aggressive ant species. They kill and attack other live insects, though this behavior typically requires a large colony. Their exoskeletons are thicker than those of many other ants, making them resilient enough to handle being picked up by hand without harm. This species is also polygynous, meaning it can have multiple queens within a single colony. They reproduce rapidly during the summer, but egg production nearly halts in the winter. The queens of this species are only slightly larger than the worker ants, making the size difference not particularly noticeable. queen 5-6mm. workers 4mm.
Rhytidoponera chalybaea (blue pony) is the only large ant species that is easy to care for, with a body size of 8-10mm （queen is 10mm). Other large ant species typically require experienced keepers. This species is highly attractive, as its body reflects a blue shimmer under sunlight or light. It eats a variety of foods, but the larvae require insects or meat, while the adult ants consume sugar water or honey water. Unlike many other ants, this species spins cocoons before reaching adulthood. It reproduces quickly and is unique in that most colonies lack a traditional queen. Instead, they exist in a gamergate system, where multiple worker ants can lay eggs and reproduce.
Lesser Sneaking is a species that reproduces very quickly. It does not have a specific breeding season, as new queens are produced year-round, and they are capable of intranidal mating flights (where mating occurs within the nest). The number of queens is very high, with approximately 1 queen for every 100 worker ants in the colony. After one year of care, the colony will typically have an average of 5 to 10 queens. The size of the queen is almost identical to that of the worker ants, making it very difficult to distinguish between them. The only difference is that the queen is entirely black, while the workers are brown, but this color distinction is not very noticeable and requires close observation to spot. about 2-3mm.
Chelaner Antarcticus is a fast-reproducing ant species known for filling their nests with an abundance of eggs. Smaller colonies often have multiple queens, but as the colony grows, it typically reduces to just 1-2 queens. Some queens may leave with workers to form new colonies, while others may be eliminated. This species is incredibly easy to care for, as they eat almost any type of food and have low humidity and temperature requirements. While they prefer nesting in wood and often lay their eggs on wooden surfaces, this is not strictly necessary, making them an ideal choice for both beginners and experienced ant keepers. queen is 5-7mm, workers 2-4mm.
Huberia striata :The primary challenge in keeping Huberia striata lies in the queens' extreme skittishness; they are easily frightened and may flee their nesting chambers. While most startled queens return to the nest within a few days, a small percentage may die from the stress. This species is polygynous, meaning colonies can have multiple queens—a large colony of several thousand workers may contain 30-50 queens. They reproduce quickly and are of medium size, making them an interesting but slightly demanding species to care for.
Mayriella abstinens
Dracula
Orectognathus
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The nest size should match the colony's size. A small colony should be housed in a compact nest chamber—this helps the queen feel secure enough to lay eggs. If a small colony is placed in an oversized nest, the queen will continuously search for a smaller, safer space before settling down to lay. However, since she can't escape the enclosure, she may never find a suitable spot, delaying reproduction. Some of the ant nests I sell feature expandable sections, allowing you to gradually open up new areas as the colony grows. Others are designed with interconnectable modules, enabling you to attach additional space when needed. In nature, ants relocate as their colony expands. Similarly, in captivity, you can transfer them to a larger nest once the original one becomes overcrowded.
different farm we selling
1 = Ants with P1, P2, N1, N2, N3, N4, A3, A4, A5, A6 farm =
2 = Ants with B1, B2 farm =
3 = Ants with F1, F2, F3, F4 farm =
1 = Ants with P1, P2, N1, N2, N3, N4, A3, A4, A5, A6 farm =
1, when you got everything, use tweezers to take the cotton off from living area, let ant can come out.
2, the tube for water should still have some water, put it in nest area water tower hole, and refill it when water is gone. The fish line beside of blue sponge is for air can get in, so more water come out, you need it, if you loss it, any small stick will do. (if you got any question about this, email me, im here all the time)
3, the small white/green plate is for food, you should also got a 10ml food, the ant only need one drop every 2 days. When the colony become more ants, you may give them little bit more. Liquid food is good, but if you can get them some small insect like fly, it will be better for the queen got more eggs because small insect have more protein. other food such as chicken, beef will also good.
4, the lid on living area, can keep open, because i apply the anti-escape powder on it already, ant will not cross the white line. It can keep them for 1-2 years, but if you accidentally wipe it out, you can email me buy some of those only $2. or you can buy some baby powder from supermarket add with some water, it also work.
2 = Ants with B1, B2 farm =
1, when you got everything, use tweezers to take the cotton off from living area, let ant can come out. (If i set up ant inside farm for you already). If ants still in tube, you can just put ant in tube inside the living area, open the cotton, ant will move out in few days. If move ant from your old farm to this, can open as much as you can with your old farm, and put whole old farm in living area, stop give water to your old farm and keep the dark cover out, ant will move to somewhere moist and dark.
2, Open the black cap on the glass test tube and add water with a syringe, it will keeps the cement moist. some ant don't need it, so it may coming with nomally tube, don't have black end. (if you got any question about this, email me, im here all the time)
3, when you carry B1,B2 farm from one table to other, please use both hand hold tube layer part, DO NOT carry living area because the tube layer will drop off.
4, When you want put living area up and put on side to check ant in tube, please use both hand to carry living area, also use your thumbs to hold white connect part. If it is loss, just push in will be fine.
5, the small white/green plate is for food, you should also got a 10ml food, the ant only need one drop every 2 days. When the colony become more ants, you may give them little bit more. Liquid food is good, but if you can get them some small insect like fly, it will be better for the queen got more eggs because small insect have more protein. other food such as chicken, beef will also good.
6, the lid on living area, can keep open, because i apply the anti-escape powder on it already, ant will not cross the white line. It can keep them for 1-2 years, but if you accidentally wipe it out, you can email me buy some of those only $2. or you can buy some baby powder from supermarket add with some water, it also work.
3 = Ants with F1, F2, F3, F4 farm =
When you got the farm, take the top lid off, there is a cotton to block ant come out from nest, so you need take the cotton off. The top lid can keep off all the time, because I have apply the anti-escape powder on it already ( the white powder things). as long as it still there, ant can not come out.
The syringe is used to add water to the nest part, which is added from the small plastic tube on the back or side. The ants cannot drink water here, but this can keep the nest moist.. about 5ml every week.
The tube is for drinking water, just need put on the back.
For big head, you only need feed them one drop of liquid food every 3 days, and if you can found any small insect, they will love to eat.
4: Condensation on farm: Condensation typically occurs due to temperature fluctuations, such as moving from warm to cold environments. creating a difference between the inside and outside temperatures of the nest. This is similar to how morning dew forms on windows. While condensation itself is harmless to ants (they won’t climb on it), sudden temperature shifts can stress the colony. To prevent this: Keep the ant farm in a stable environment, avoid moving it between rooms with different temperatures. Do not place it too close to heaters, air conditioners, or windows where drafts or direct sunlight may cause rapid temperature changes. With proper setup, condensation can be minimized, ensuring a healthy habitat for your ants.
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5: ant not move around
Why Are My Ants Not Moving Around Much? Ants in the nest spend most of their time resting to conserve energy—just like we don’t run around constantly at home. They only become active when they need to leave the nest for food. If you’re feeding them well, they won’t feel the need to venture out frequently. In nature, every foraging trip carries risks (predators, dehydration, getting lost), so ants minimize unnecessary movement when resources are already available. This behavior is completely normal and actually means your colony is healthy and well-fed!
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7: Keep Daphnia
- Please do not use tap water, the better water you can use is from your fish tank. or rain water.
- When you received it, better put them in 2 container or tank, always have a back up.
- Do not use any air pump, they can’t swimming, they just flow, air pump will cost they dead.
Feeding:
Green Algae Water (Best Option):
The water I sent contains green algae, which is the ideal food for daphnia. Just place them in fish tank water under sunlight for 2-3 hours daily—no heater or pump needed. Once the water turns green, the daphnia will thrive and multiply on their own with no extra effort.
Yeast Feeding (Backup Option):
If algae doesn’t grow, use a pinch of baking yeast mixed in room-temperature water. Add a small amount to the tank whenever the water clears—keep it slightly cloudy. Remember: underfeeding is safer than overfeeding, as too much yeast can harm them.
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8: About anti-escape powder
Add water or Alcohol to 9ml mark on tube, shake well, then use brush to apply on just like color painting.
All the living area need anti-escape powder for small ant, as there we need open the lid, so there will be gape, and ant will escape, we can make to tidy to seal, it will become no way to open the lid.
Large ant is ok, they don't need anti-escape powder as they can't claim well.
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9: springtails
Springtails are incredibly low-maintenance to keep. They thrive on decaying plant matter and organic debris in the soil, so they rarely need supplemental feeding. If you want to give them an extra boost, just add 1-2 small pieces of dry oat per week—that’s all they need! Their simple diet and hardy nature make them perfect for bioactive setups or as a cleanup crew in terrariums.
Isolating Springtails from Other Soil Bugs If you want a pure springtail culture, try this simple water method: Place the infested soil in a plastic container and slowly fill it with cold water. Springtails float to the surface while other bugs stay submerged or sink. Just skim them off—now you have a clean springtail colony for your setup! Why it works: Springtails’ water-repellent bodies make them buoyant, letting you separate them easily from unwanted hitchhikers.